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Snap beans grow best in full sun (they
are tolerant of light shade) in a moist, well-drained, friable and moderately
fertile soil.
Sandy loam soils which are loose and warm rapidly in spring are preferred,
but beans can be grown successfully on heavier clay or organic soils provided
the soil is properly prepared and well managed. This may include mixing
in some coarse sand to loosen the soil to improve drainage and aeration.
Snap beans make best use of fertilizers if the pH is 6.0 to 6.5. When lime
and/or fertilizer is applied, till it six to eight inches deep just prior
to planting. Break up large clods of soil and rake the area smooth.
Varieties
Snap beans are the most popular bean, and many of the varieties are stringless.
Beans have a short growing season and are harvested when the pods are immature.
The snap bean is a member of the legume family and has the ability to fix
atmospheric nitrogen in its roots. However, beans do not remain in the
ground long enough to be effective in producing nitrogen-fixing nodules.
Snap beans are either bush or pole types. Bush types are self-supporting
plants that grow one to two feet high, while pole types produce vines that
require support such as stakes or a trellis.
Snap Bean Varieties Suitable for Connecticut
| Bush-Green |
Bush-Green Bush Blue Lake, Greensleeves, Provider,
Tenderpod, Greencrop, Roma, Derby |
| Bush-Yellow |
Bush-Yellow Slenderwax, Goldcrop, Golden Butter Wax, Gold Rush |
| Pole |
Pole Romano, Blue Lake, Rust Resistant Kentucky Wonder, French
Horticultural |
Planting
Snap beans are a warm season crop that grows best when the mean temperature
is between 70o and 85oF. Temperatures that are too high can cause plants
to drop blossoms. Germination is delayed when soil temperature is below
65oF. In most parts of Connecticut, planting of snap beans can be done
successfully in mid- to late May.
The bush-type varieties are usually planted in rows. For single rows
with 18 to 30 inches between rows, the seeds are sown one to two inches
apart, and seedlings are thinned to two inches apart. For wide row plantings
that are 18 inches wide, the seeds are placed three to four inches apart
in all directions.
The pole varieties are planted in rows two to four feet apart with seeds
spaced one to two inches apart. Use stakes or a trellis to hold vines
from falling to the ground. Pole varieties are also planted in hills
three feet apart in all directions. Sow six to eight seeds in each hill
and thin to three to four strongest plants to a hill.
Snap beans have large seeds which are sown 1 to 11/2 inches deep. Successive
plantings of bush-type varieties at two-week intervals can prolong the
harvest season.
Care
Weeds are controlled easily in the seedling stage by shallow cultivation.
Do not cultivate too deep because bean roots are close to the surface.
A two- to four-inch layer of mulching material such as straw, weed-free
hay, mulch, lawn clippings or other loose organic material can be effective
against annual weeds if it is applied to weed-free soil. Black plastic
stops all weed growth and may hasten bean growth by warming the soil.
Beans are sensitive to both dry and wet conditions. Too much or too little
water can cause beans to drop their flower buds or pods. Keep the soil
evenly moist. An inch of water per week is needed during the growing
season. This will moisten the soil to a depth of six to 12 inches.
Harvest
Snap beans are harvested as immature pods before the seeds are well developed.
At this stage, they have the best flavor and nutritional value. Beans
must be picked two times a week to ensure a continuous harvest. If pods
are allowed to mature, the plant will stop blooming.
Insects, Diseases and Other Pests
Snap beans are attacked by many insects and diseases and their damage
can be serious at times. However, problems are best controlled by some
preventive measures such as planting disease-resistant varieties or disease-free
seeds, removing and destroying all diseased plants in and near the garden,
using crop rotation, not handling plants when the foliage is wet, and
keeping the garden and surrounding areas free of debris and weeds.
Chemical control is another way to combat diseases and insects. However,
it should be used only after all other methods have failed. (See chart.)
Insects and Diseases of Beans
|
Description |
Control |
| Anthracnose |
Pods:
Brown to black sunken circular spots. Under moist conditions,
spots may have pink color. Leaves: Dark reddish-brown to black
area on veins. Stem: Elongated rust colored lesions |
Grow
resistant varieties. Till in debris in the fall. Avoid overcrowding.
Apply fungicides at flower initiation, late flowering and pod
fill stages. Use copper compounds, chlorothalonil or maneb. |
| Bacterial
Blight |
Leaves:
Small, water-soaked areas developing into larger, reddish-brown
areas. Stems and pods: Deeply sunken lesions surrounded by reddish-brown
tissue. |
Plant
western-grown seed. Stay out of garden when plants are wet. Till
in debris in the fall. Apply copper sprays (cupric hydroxide)
when disease is noticed |
| Mosaic
viruses |
Yellow
mottling of leaves. Deformed leaves and stunting of plant Blossoms
may drop. |
Grow
resistant varieties. Control aphids and leafhoppers which carry
viruses. |
| Powdery
Mildew |
Powdery
white growth on leaves, stems and occasionally pods. Affected
parts often shriveled and distorted. |
Grow
resistant varieties. Avoid overcrowding. Provide adequate air
flow. Apply sulfur weekly during periods of high humidity. |
| Rust |
Small,
whitish, slightly raised pustules on the underside of the leaves
turning a reddish-brown. These discharge the rusty colored dust-like
spores. More of a problem in hot, humid weather with heavy morning
dew. |
Maintain
good air circulation. Apply a fungicide when weather conditions
are favorable for disease development. Use chlorothalonil or
sulfur. Weekly applications may be necessary. |
| White
mold Sclerotinia |
Water
soaked spots appear on stems, leaves and branches about seven
days after bloom. A white cottony mass develops in which small
black hard bodies appear. Leaves yellow, brown and fail off. |
Provide
good air circulation in well-drained soil. Apply fungicide at
first bloom--benomyl, sulfur or thiophanate-methyl. |
| Mexican
Bean Beetle |
About
1/4" long, coppery brown color. Eight black spots on each
wing. Small yellow eggs. The larva is a yellow spiny grub usually
found on the underside of leaves. |
Clean
debris from and near the garden where the adults overwinter.
Control insects with rotenone, acephate, malathion, carbaryl,
diatect, diazinon, pyrenone, pyrellin or methoxychlor. |
| Aphids |
Small
green, yellow or black sucking insects found near the new growth.
Heavy feeding causes curling on the foliage and presence of honeydew
which turns black from sooty mold. |
Apply
acephate, insecticidal soap, diatect, diazinon, malathion, naturgro,
ultraftne petroleum oil, pyrellin, pyrenone or rotenone when
the insects are noticed. |
| Leafhoppers |
Small
light-brown to gray insects about 1/8" long which hop when
disturbed. Capable of transmitting viruses. |
Control
weeds in and near the garden. Apply acephate, Diatect, diazinon,
malathion, insecticidal soap, natur-gro, ultrafine petroleum
oil, pyrellin, pyrenone or rotenone when the insects are noticed. |
| Mites
or Red Spiders |
Very
small, light-colored or reddish. Small white spots on leaves
where mites have fed. Heavy feeding damage will cause the foliage
to brown. Webs are present when mite populations are high. |
Apply
diatect, diazinon, dicofol, malathion, insecticidal soap, ultrafine
petroleum oil, propargite or pyrellin when mites are noticed. |
Bean Disease Photos (black & white images
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The information in
this material is for educational purposes. The recommendations contained
are based on the best available knowledge at the time of printing.
Any reference to commercial products, trade or brand names is for information
only, and no endorsement or approval is intended. The Cooperative Extension
system does not guarantee or warrant the standard of any product referenced
or imply approval of the product to the exclusion of others which also
may be available.All agrochemicals/pesticides listed are registered
for suggested uses in accordance with federal and Connecticut state
laws and regulations as of the date of printing. If the information
does not agree with current labeling, follow the label instructions.
The label is the law.Warning! Agrochemicals/pesticides are dangerous.
Read and follow all instructions and safety precautions on labels.
Carefully handle and store agrochemicals/pesticides in originally labeled
containers immediately in a safe manner and place. Contact the Connecticut
Department of Environmental Protection for current regulations.The
user of this information assumes all risks for personal injury or property
damage.Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of
May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of
Agriculture. Kirklyn M. Kerr, Director, Cooperative Extension System,
The University of Connecticut, Storrs. The Connecticut Cooperative
Extension System offers its programs to persons regardless of race,
color, national origin, sex, age or disability and is an equal opportunity
employer.
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